Fashion Wire Daily New York - This fall's bridal fashion week in New York was "just as crazy as ready-to-wear," we heard one wearied photographer lamenting as he joined a stream of Madison Avenue ladies pouring into the Vera Wang showroom. As the number of designers branching into bridal grows, not only is the show calendar becoming increasingly packed, but -- with major names like Oscar de la Renta and John Galliano joining the fray -- bridal fashion is gaining new respect as just that: fashion.
Elegant Bride editor Deborah Moses, for one, couldn't be happier with the hectic schedule. In revamping the quarterly title earlier this year, Moses has taken an entirely fresh, fashion-forward approach to the traditionally taffeta-and-tiaras business of putting out a bridal magazine. And she knows she's succeeded when she sees her handiwork next to titles like Harper's Bazaar and Vogue on newsstands.
"It's probably the most exciting time for bridal right now," she told us during a brief breather, towards the end of the recent bridal fashion week. "There are so many new entries, really big name designers, and people are working harder on their presentations." This month, Elegant Bride snagged exclusive photos of the new Galliano bridal collection for Dior as well as Oscar's new offerings and Lacroix's extended bridal series.
In terms of specific trends to come out of this latest round of bridal madness in New York, Moses points to delicate details and interesting treatments. "There were a lot of lace appliqués. I saw that across the line - from medium-priced to over-the-top priced." De la Renta's debut bridal collection included duchess satin gowns layered with lace and several of Wang's lingerie-inspired pieces featured lace insets. Michelle Roth showed a delicate lace gown with silver-threaded detail and cap sleeves.
Moses also took note of a bevy of bows - from skinny to over-sized. Carolina Herrera, for example, sweetly adorned a bias-cut, cap-sleeved gown with just one petite satin bow, nestled below the bust.
Ruffles were another element out in full force. De la Renta's 16 looks included a silk faille gown with a ruffled mandarin collar, while Reem Acra showed a narrow crepe number with a ruffled empire bodice and satin ribboning.
Moses also points to floral motifs - "from painted fabric white-on-white to embroidery to appliqués" - and color as prominent trends this season. One of the nine looks in Badgley's Mischka's edited collection was an ivory organza dress with three-dimensional laser-cut flowers fluttering across the skirt. Reem Acra embroidered some of her veils and dresses in pale pinks and greens, and Michelle Roth featured several looks with hints of blush and one Scarlett O'Hara-worthy ball gown printed with a pastel floral design.
One look that received much less play than usual in this latest batch of bridal offerings was the strapless neckline. "Buyers are asking for more options, because that's what girls want. Their friends have all gotten married in strapless gowns and they want something else," explains Moses. Roth showed a plethora of scoop, spaghetti strap and evening plunging styles. Wang showed everything from long-sleeves to halters.
Moses also asserts that, "the sheath is the new classic. I see a lot more girls wanting to be glamorous brides and sexy brides." Designers are obliging, with slim-cut, body-hugging pieces proliferating in most every collection.
And brides planning fall/winter weddings certainly weren't left out in the cold this season. Herrera presented a precious princess coat in fitted, creamy velvet with fur-trimmed color and cuffs and a slight train, while Vera Wang showed a full-length ivory, hand-knit cashmere hooded coat, as well as cashmere scarves and shawls.
All in all, "it's a fun time to be a bridal magazine that's fashion-driven," says Moses. "It's certainly not too hard to come up with story ideas!"
